As an unrepentant whisky snob, the spirits in my liquor cabinet are typically stocked with fine Scotch or whiskies from our local Alberta craft distillers, but I have been known to occasionally broaden my horizons to spirits from far and wide.
When it comes to whisk(e)y, every country has their own style. Scotland has their single malts. Ireland triple-distills in column stills. Canada makes whisky from rye grains, and the USA is famous for their corn-based Bourbon Whiskey.
I have historically avoided Bourbon due to its corn-based hillbilly reputation, preferring the more noble barley and rye grains that we grow so well here in Alberta, but I am making an exception for a momentous release from Alberta’s own Highwood Distillers, their very first 25 year old corn-based whiskey, put into barrels way back in 2001, and just being released to consumers now!
For those not familiar, the origins of Bourbon go back to the late 18th century in Bourbon County, Kentucky. The large influx of immigrants from the British Isles settled the area now known as Kentucky, and they quickly set to work making hooch from whatever they could find.
The Scottish and Irish settlers were accustomed to making fine whiskeys from barley, but the Kentucky fields produced more corn than anything else. Unsurprisingly, the Bourbon Whiskey style evolved using corn as the base, and most Bourbons will distill down a mash of 70% corn and 30% barley or wheat.
Similar to the geographic naming regulations of other spirits, Bourbon must be produced in the United States in order to be legally called Bourbon. While close to 97% of all Bourbon production does happen in Kentucky, it can be produced in any US state, even Hawaii or Alaska!
Bourbon must also be made from a grain mixture that is at least 51% corn, although most distillers use around 70% corn to give Bourbon its distinctive taste.
This is quite different from most other whiskies, which prefer to stick with the traditional barley, wheat, or rye grains. This reliance on corn is what makes the other whisky makers look down their collective noses at the Bourbon distillers.
Bourbon must be aged in new, charred oak barrels. Some whiskies will re-use oak barrels that held sherry or another liquor, but Bourbon gets a new barrel each time. Most Bourbon is aged in the barrel for at least four years, in a manner similar to other whiskies.
Similar to other geographic designations like Champagne or Port, Bourbon is a protected trademark, so only whiskies made in the USA can be labeled as Bourbon, but we have a few Canadian distillers making corn-based whiskies in the same style as Bourbon, although they are all careful enough with their labeling to hint that the whisky is Bourbon-styled without actually calling it Bourbon.
Bourbon-styled corn whiskies are typically not aged for extended periods, so the famed Highwood Distillers in the small Albertan town of High River releasing a 25 year 100% corn whisky just a few weeks ago is a momentous occasion for Alberta tipplers!
Faithful readers may recall the floodageddon of 2013 that forced an evacuation of the entire town, with thousands of homes damaged. Unsurprisingly, Highwood Distillers is located very close to the aforementioned Highwood River, and the distillery did suffer extensive flooding damage, but their storage warehouse holding the most expensive oaken whisky barrels was elevated just barely high enough to escape the floodwaters, miraculously preserving the whisky that went into barrels back in 2001, and is now available for purchase today, meaning you can sample a wee dram of divine providence while supporting a local Alberta business.
Canadian whiskies are rarely aged for this long, so I jumped on an opportunity to sample it at a whisky tasting event last week, and found plenty of notes of vanillin and toast from the long oak aging, warm spices and a hint of dark fruit with an exceptionally smooth finish. Look for the Highwood 25 whisky at well stocked bottle shops throughout Alberta, at the surprisingly low price of $150 for such an old whisky.